Target Audience: Individuals who have colored their hair for a long time and are unsure of their natural shade or how to navigate hair color levels.
Goal of Article: To provide an authoritative, step-by-step guide to accurately identifying one’s natural hair color level, understanding its implications, and making informed decisions for future coloring.

As a master colorist with over 15 years behind the chair, I can tell you that one of the most common and relatable points of confusion for my clients is a seemingly simple question: “what color is my hair?” They’ll sit down, and after years of highlights, glosses, and root touch-ups, they genuinely have no idea what their “real” color is anymore. Is it the color they had as a child? Or the shade that’s peeking through at the roots?

If this sounds familiar, you are not alone. Understanding your true, current natural hair color—what we professionals call your “level”—is the single most important piece of information you need for any successful hair color journey. It’s the foundation upon which every formula is built.

This guide will walk you through the exact process I use with my clients in the salon to demystify their color, so you can approach your next hair color decision with the confidence of a pro.

Part 1: The Language of Color – Demystifying the “Level System”

Before we can find your color, we need to speak the same language. In the world of hair color, that language is the Level System.

Think of it like a musical scale, but for hair color depth. The Level System is a universal scale from 1 to 10 that standardizes how light or dark a hair color is. This system is what allows a colorist in New York to understand a formula from a colorist in Los Angeles without ever seeing the client.

• Level 1: Black

• Levels 2-5: Dark to Medium Brown (Level 5 is a very common “medium brown”)

• Levels 6-8: Dark to Light Blonde (Level 6 is often called “dark blonde,” Level 8 is “medium blonde”)

• Levels 9-10: Very Light to Lightest Blonde

Why this matters: Vague terms like “medium brown” can mean different things to different people. But a “Level 5” is a specific, measurable starting point. Knowing your level is the key to predictable results and preventing color mishaps.

Part 2: The Practical Guide – Answering “What Color Is My Hair?”

Let’s do this. To accurately determine your natural level, you need to become a bit of a detective. Follow these steps I use in the salon every day.

Step 1: Find Your “Truth Section”
The hair around your face is often finer and gets more sun exposure, making it appear lighter than your overall color. It lies! To find your true level, you need to look at the hair at the crown of your head, or even a section from the back. This hair is the most protected and gives the most accurate reading of your natural depth.

Step 2: Isolate and Illuminate
Take a small segment of hair from your “truth section.” Hold it up and away from the rest of your hair. The goal is to let light pass through it. Hair always looks darker when it’s clumped together. For the best result, stand in natural daylight (near a window is perfect), as artificial indoor lighting can cast a yellow hue and distort the color.

Step 3: Acknowledge the Grays (and the Past)
Look closely at the first half-inch of hair growing from your scalp. If you have gray hair, you need to mentally “read” the color of the pigmented strands in between the grays. This is your current natural level. It’s common for people to think their natural color is what they had as a child, but our hair often darkens with age due to hormonal changes. The question you’re answering is not “what color was my hair?” but “what color is my hair right now?”

Step 4: Compare to a Level Chart
With your isolated section held up to the light, compare it to a hair color level chart (like the one described above). Be honest with yourself. Most people instinctively think their hair is lighter than it actually is. Does it match a Level 4 (dark brown), a Level 5 (medium brown), or a Level 6 (dark blonde)? This number is your starting point.

Part 3: The Rules of the Road – What Your Level Means for Your Next Color

Okay, you’ve asked “what color is my hair?” and you have your answer—let’s say you’re a natural Level 5. What now? This knowledge empowers you to understand the non-negotiable rules of hair color.

The Golden Rule: Permanent Color Cannot Lighten Existing Permanent Color.
I cannot stress this enough. If you have previously colored your hair with a Level 5 permanent dye, putting a Level 7 (blonde) dye on top of it will do absolutely nothing to lighten it. It may deposit more pigment and even look darker. To go lighter on previously colored hair, you need a professional to use lightener (bleach) to remove the old color first.

The Lifting Rule (Going Lighter):
Standard at-home hair color has a developer with a fixed strength. This means it can safely and predictably lift your natural, uncolored hair by about 1-2 levels. For example, if you are a natural Level 5, you can use a dye to become a Level 6 or 7. You cannot become a Level 10 platinum blonde from a box dye if you are a natural brunette. That requires a salon process.

The Darkening Rule (Going Darker):
It’s always chemically easier to go darker, but I advise my clients to do so incrementally. If you jump from a Level 7 to a Level 4 in one go, you risk the color looking flat, inky, and unnatural due to oversaturation. It’s always better to go one shade darker at a time. This prevents “color build-up” and gives you more control.

Your Final Answer and Next Steps

By following these steps, you can finally answer the question, “what color is my hair?” with professional accuracy. This knowledge is your power. It helps you understand what is realistically achievable at home, prevents disappointing results, and allows you to have a much more productive conversation with a professional colorist.

If you are ever in doubt, especially when dealing with previously colored hair or wanting a dramatic change, my strongest advice is to seek a professional consultation. But now, you’ll be walking in armed with the fundamental language of hair color, ready to achieve the look you truly desire.